A new word entered the beauty industry’s vernacular in recent years, and today its usage has widened to apply to nearly every area of the business.
With the pandemic prompting an increased focus on health and wellness, our lives changed and what we needed from our beauty products changed with it, leading to a rise in what has become known as the “skinification” of beauty. As more beauty products with skincare benefits and ingredients began hitting the shelves, foundation was moved aside for tinted moisturizer; powder formulations gave way to creams, liquids, sticks, and balms; and, perhaps the ultimate mash-up, serum foundations arrived in the aisles.
Serums are traditionally a liquid skincare product with high concentrations of actives that address specific skincare concerns. When serum foundations launched, the primary difference was the addition of pigment. Actives familiar to skincare aficionados such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and squalane were prominently featured. During this time, makeup sales skyrocketed, growing double-digits, and while part of that growth was regaining volume lost during the pandemic, another factor was the innovation this skinification brought to the category. Consumers gravitated toward products they could count on to not only provide coverage, but also benefit their skin. In fact, more than 50% of U.S. consumers seek products that combine makeup and skincare in one, with just over 60% of Gen Z and Millennials aligning with this sentiment, according to Circana’s Makeup Consumer Report.
But the skinification movement isn’t stopping at makeup; in the past year, we’ve seen hair products infuse more skincare ingredients, as scalp care became a focus. Skincare ingredients like glycolic acid and salicylic acid went viral as social media hacks to exfoliate, balance PH levels, and help treat conditions like dermatitis and dandruff circulated. Even fragrance is experiencing a skinification as brands look to eliminate alcohols and replace them with ingredients that are easier for sensitive skin types to tolerate.
How has the skinification of beauty affected skincare itself? The category is performing well, with dollar sales increasing by 7% in the first half of 2024 and as the fastest-growing category based on units sold, up 10% year over year. The products driving sales, however, are smaller segments of the market that are currently experiencing their own skinification: body care and sun products. Both segments are growing faster than the overall skincare category as ingredients we typically use on our face, like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin C, are migrating into these areas.
At the core of the skinification trend is influential innovation. The categories within beauty often inspire one another, propelling the industry forward. At present, the consumer is focused on products that are multi-purpose and provide skincare benefits in other categories. Skincare brands must differentiate their products and continue to educate consumers on technological ingredient advancements to remain in the conversation.
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